There are a variety of routes that can be taken through the Baliem valley. Inform your guide of your fitness and the kind of experience you are looking for –such as whether you mostly want to see bare countryside or pass through lots of villages.
This way you can pick the route and pace, to suit the experience you’re craving. In total, I trekked for 5 days, staying at the scenic village of Wamarek, Userem, Syokosimo and Yogoshine.
If you have several weeks, you can make the challenging journey into the highlands of Yali country, which is even more isolated. Just realize you’ll have to make the entire journey back again, unless you can charter one of the infrequent missionary planes from Yali country to Wamena. You could go to the missionary office by the airport to try and arrange this.
Finally bear in mind that tribal conflict can occur. Make sure your guide is comfortable taking your selected route and there is no risk to either of you. Also check for travel warnings before you set off.
Cultural Encounters, Wildlife & Mystery
Don’t be surprised when the tribes you visit are mostly naked. The further into the jungle you venture, the less clothes there are. It’s just one of the many cultural encounters you may have never experienced before.
“Wah” means welcome, as does being given a whole sweet potato when you arrive somewhere you’re staying. Eat it-skin and all! Bring cigarettes [vital] and sweets [big bonus] as presents but unwrap sweets and put the wrappers in a bag or children will litter the ground with them.
Virtually none of the villagers speak any English whatsoever. By evening, I interacted with them almost entirely by showing them pictures on my phone-they loved catching a glimpse of the outside world.
While tramping through the jungle, be prepared to see all manner of wild flora and fauna, including: stunning orchids, huge spiders, strange birds, and large lizards.
The Baliem Valley is littered with pristine fossils. Keep your eyes peeled for them on the ground, but don’t touch or steal them.
Raja Ampat
To get the Raja Ampat islands, first fly to Sorong. Go to the Raja Ampat Tourism office across the road from the airport and buy your Raja Ampat Entrance Ticket for 500,000 IDR [US $36].
Get a taxi to Sorong Ferry Harbor and buy your ticket at the office. From here, you need to get a ferry to Waisai, capital of the Raja Ampat Regency. Ferries leave at 9:00am or 2:00pm every day, but can be both exceptionally late and early- you’ve been warned! Express boats take two hours, while slow boats take four and cost 130,000 IDR [US $9].
The easiest way of getting from Waisai to your island of choice is by arranging to be picked up at the harbor through whichever accommodation you’re staying with.
Tip: Bring the strongest mosquito repellent you can find, and wear long sleeves at night to keep the pests at bay.
Divine Diving
Island life is wonderfully slow, there are two things you can do- sit in a hammock with a book all day, or go diving.
You’ll need to be confident fitting your harness, and getting set up without guidance within minimal time, before rolling backwards out of the tiny boat and into the water.
As for the scene beneath the waves: rainbow colored forests of coral cavort across the sea bed, as huge tuna and sleek sharks dive after shimmering schools of fish. It will take your breath away. Fortunately, you’ll have an air tank.
On Top of the World
There is a truly stunning viewpoint on Kri, on the far western side of Papua. At first the jungle path alternates between being visible and non-existent, so pay close attention to your surroundings, as it’s less clear coming down.
After climbing 490ft [150m], take a left and make the half kilometer climb to sunset viewpoint. There are a few twists and turns, but for the most part there’s an actual path to follow-just look up every once-in-a-while to check for spider webs.
After the steep climb, you’ll emerge from the jungle to a small clearing overlooking the entire island. Watch the sky go red as the sun sets, and flick your head torch on to head back down.
The way back down is notorious for being easy to get lost on. Make sure you leave with a decent amount of light, it’s far darker beneath the dense canopy. Stick to the path you followed on the way up!
The Raja Ampat Islands are a truly stunning archipelago, almost dreamlike in their pristine nature and stunning coral reefs. It’s impossible to explain quite why they’re unlike anywhere you’ve to go.
